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Caring
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LA You keep most toads over dry land. Fire-belly toads live life on the edge -- of the water. Origins: Fire-bellied TOADs (which should be treated like frogs) originally came from China. They now come from commercial farms in Singapore.
Appeal: Their bright green backs and brighter than fire red belly make these a very good looking toad. Most toads border on drab at best (if not downright ugly). Red in nature usually means Danger -- Do Not Eat.
Size: Adult fire-belly toads max out at two inches. This makes them ideal for the small amphibian terrarium. Do not mix them with larger frogs. They taste nasty, but larger frogs will eat them anyway.
Landing Ramps: Provide sloping rocks or wood to give your fire-belly toads easy access to and egress from the water. Light colored rocks cause their green color to brighten. They darken up when resting on brown wood.
Loafing Areas: A mass of floating plants provides good places for these friendly little toads to hang. Fire-belly toads also climb up on those artificial lily pads.
Hiding Places: Fire-belly toads want to hide once in a while. Give them more than one place to hide, or they all pile up together. Submerged Caves: Provide hollows under water for breeding toads to use as egg-laying sites. They like to spend most of their time basking at the surface in the open. Fire-belly toads are not hiders. Foods: Provide live insects and worms. Like many toads, Bombinas quickly learn to eat bits of food wiggled on the end of a broom straw. They will come to the front at feeding time. Supplements: Since food crickets often get wet and rinse themselves free of calcium dust, you’ll get better results by feeding their crickets a nutritious diet.
Sort of Climbers: Even when you lower the water level, you still need to cover fire-belly toads. They will clamber up the glass (especially in the corners) and bail. Unlike most toads, they dry out quite rapidly. Think of them as frogs. Keep them moist at all times.
Mixers: Fire-belly toads love to congregate with their own kind. Beware of overcrowding. They also mix well with other similar-sized species with the same basic requirements. Good cage mates include the smaller newts, tadpoles, anoles, tree frogs, and snails. Opposing
Info from S. Rogge
Sexing: Male fire-belly toads develop breeding pads on their “fingers” for grasping those pesky slippery females.
Taylor Jurrell, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, November 20, 2006 A: Thanks. I'll add it to my fire belly page. LA Spawning: If you’ve kept your fire-belly toads until summer, you’re ready to spawn them. Keep them in their own tank with four to six inches of water. Feed them a variety of foods. Plankton should make a great conditioning food. Once they spawn, remove the parents to protect the offspring. Tadpoles: Baby fire-belly toads eat infusoria or powder-fine fish food. They start turning into frogs in four weeks. The parents will eat the smaller toadlets. The toadlets will develop yellow bellies unless fed foods containing Canthaxanthin. Get this color food into their system by feeding it to their crickets.
Recommended First Food: Baby fire-bellies need gnat-size foods -- such as fruit flies. Have your culture ready or learn how to attract wild ones -- no prob in warm weather. Put your babies outside (in the shade). Kritter Keepers work great. Have a shallow layer of water on the bottom. On a rock or some object jutting out of the water, put a piece of mashed banana on it. Fruit flies will magically find your banana and the little toadlets will find the fruit flies.
Last Words.
Pretty. Fun. Easy to care for. Inexpensive.
Interesting. Intriguing life cycle. What’s not to
like? Even non-frog lovers like fire belly toads. LA
Sarah Kafel, January 5, 2011
I was reading your article on breeding fire belly toads. It is by far the best I have seen. However I am having one problem I can't find the answer to anywhere.
See, my fire belly toads have been breeding. Like crazy. But I never
saw any eggs. Not until today, when I noticed one of my toads
struggling with something on it's face. When I pulled it out to help
it, I found it was eating a long string of eggs! I never would had
noticed those eggs as it was. a clear gel, and the tiny tiny black
dots...
I don't know why he/she was eating the eggs?
But, my question is this. Once a male mates with a female, how long
after that does she lay the eggs? I was hoping maybe if I knew how
long it takes after they mate, that I could be watching for her to
lay them, and remove them before they get eaten.
Any help with this is most appreciated.
A: He or she was hungry. Here's some help for the next time. Amphibians are primed by going thru a winter -- a couple of months at about 60 F in low water with short rations. When you kick them up to 75F, raise their water level, and increase their rations, the male will start singing his love call to coax the female into some serious beach blanket bingo. He grabs her (amplexus) and she usually pops out the eggs as he fertilizes them. Either move the eggs or the parent and give them some dessert. If you want to raise the little toadlets, some wingless fruit flies or pinhead crickets will help. You need to add a red colorant to their diet as they grow, or they won't grow red bellies. Check into the red powders fed to canaries to turn them red. Lotsa work. Good luck. LA © 1996, © 2003, © 2004, © 2005, © 2007, © 2011 LA Productions
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