Aqualand Q&As October 1-10, 2011

 
 

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LA_Aqualand@msn.com

 

Lyssa Lissa, October 1, 2011
RE:  Wrong Python Info -- About Ball Pythons:
  1. They are too biters. I don’t personally own one, but my boyfriend has one and he has been bitten several times in attempts to remove it from his cage.
  2. They do NOT “ball up” when scared, they “ball up” because they’re in what herpers call “mouse mode”, meaning that he’s hungry and he/she thinks that you’re either food or going to provide food.
  3. “Ball pythons often come to pet shops directly from Africa.” Ok, stop right there. That is the main reason that any reptile should never be a pet. The fact that most of them come from the wild is the reason that many species are starting to become extinct!
  4. “Always provide a hide box.” They do not need one at all. They are perfectly content with a specialized “branch” to climb on and a clean corner to sleep in.
  5. “If you feed your ball python live prey, whack your rat before you give it to your snake” Many ball pythons never get big enough to eat any size of rat. And snakes should NEVER be fed live prey. Not only is it painful and traumatizing for the rat/mouse/rabbit to die this way, the snake itself can become seriously injured (and not because of “balling up” either.). Plus, you should NEVER “whack” a rat or any animal. If you did that to any other animal, you would have the ASPCA on your business and you would be put in JAIL!
  6. “Excess water gives ball pythons a blister-like skin infection that often proves fatal.” Not true. That would be from BAD water, such as polluted.
Needless to say, you should either take your page off the internet permanently OR take it off and do some research BEFORE putting it back up!! Any new pet owner could read this bullshit and take your advice and end up with a dead pet thanks to you. Do you want that on your conscience?  """""""

someone wrote on your page. most of HER info was wrong they do ball up she is thinking of COILING and they ARE NOT bitters unless you torture your animals.. and please no reptiles as pets? shes got to be one of those people who think they are superior to everything and yes people shouldn't have ANY pets if we shouldn't have reptiles. The ''whack''  deadens the rat and many ball pythons DO get big enough to eat rats.. mine eats 
LARGE rats...i have pet rats, also, you can pick them up by the tail but its not recommended its your own choice. sorry for all 80000 bad reviews on the rats alot of the info was actually correct.

LA
Non-biting ball python.

A:  I added your input to my ball python page.  Everyone is entitled to their own opinion.  I'll probably leave my page on the internet, even if your boyfriend's snake does not fit exactly into the parameters I've enumerated.  LA

Susan Reynolds, San Antonio, TX, October 1, 2011
Hi- We were looking at your website about lungfish. We have one that we got when it was just a small thing about the size of half the length of a pencil. Now he is over a foot long!
We need to know what his environment needs to be as he is growing out of his tank. i.e. how much water? Should we leave island or something so he can get out of the water if he wants to? How is their vision? We feed frozen brine shrimp as he doesnt seem to be able to hunt his food down, or are we being fooled because we only feed frozen brine?
You seem very knowledgeable and we would very much appreciate your input if you have the time. Thank you,

LA

A:  Lungfish are easy to keep.  You don't need an island.  Fill your tank to the top but make sure you cover it well.  They don't come out on land but will bail from an uncovered tank.  If you want to give him his favorite food, drop a nightcrawler near him.  The main problem with lungfish -- they live next to forever.  And be careful.  They will bite.  LA

Joe Donovan/Ann Dimarco, Morgantown, WV, October 2, 2011
hi -- really enjoy your website -- especially all the kids around the turtle tanks!  We used you cichlid section a lot when we tanked up
we recently started in June a 55 tankful of africans, after our 2 oscars of a number of years petered out.  First time with africans -- got a mixture of about 15 with 1"-2" red zebras, yellow labs, cobalt blues, and a couple of bossy electric blues.  We lost one of the smallest yellow labs (they are still the runts) but everything else is holding up well.  we are using 4" crusher-run iron-free limestone for rockwork and hoping that buffers the pH.  Neat fish.  We have both a powerfilter-driven undergravel setup and a marineland charcoal+spinner-type nitrifying filter.  There's a window in the room they are in and some morning sun.
Algae control has been a bit of an issue, not out of control.  We wanted to get a synodontis cat after seeing your website, but none available when we stocked the tank or since.  We started with one 1 1/2" chinese algae eater, and he was working fine until someone turned him into snack food.  The algae quickly picked up (sure sign he was toast).  So we went to the local Petco (we had got our stock in a privately owned store in Ohio) and they had a bunch of algae eaters (we got two this time -- doubt they will last long) plus a 4" long striped Raphael cat that was on adoption.  6 weeks later the algae eaters and the Raffy are still going.  We don't see much of the Raffy but started leaving out bottom pellets for him and he seems to be getting them.  The africans don't seem to pick on him though they definitely sized him up when he moved in.   He is soooo introverted but kinda cool
Will the Raffy work as a Synodontis would as the africans get bigger?  We get the idea the algae eaters will just be too vulnerable.  Alternately if we don't feed the raffy can he survive on just algae?
And of course should we still be thinking synodontis in this tank....
when we are passing through des moines we'll stop in!

A:  Raphaels don't work as well as synodontis because they prefer to hide during the daylight hours.  Happily this also protects them from your African cichlids.  They do not eat algae.  Usually Chinese algae eaters are fast enough to elude your African cichlids.  In any event, they are inexpensive.  We'll see you when you get here.  LA
 
Matt Moore, Chicago, IL, October 2, 2011
Dear Aqualand, I just saw your post about caring for rainbow crabs.  I have had my rainbow crab (his name is Crabwell Shellingsworth) for about 6 months.  He was in a three gallon tank at first where he was fairly active, constantly moving the sandy substrate in his aquarium.  Then, he came along with my me and my girlfriend in our move to Chicago (we were previously living in in northern California).  He seemed to handle the move well because, once we were settled, he began being fairly active in his tank. Also, he allowed us to hand feed him and even waved his claws at us when we would slowly wave our fingers at him on the other side of the glass.  I want to note that in his tank he had a PVC pipe to hide in.  He then stopped being so social after a while and would always hide in his pipe. We then bought him a new tank (15 gallons) complete with filter system, bogwood and a rock for him to hide under. We also thought we could have him live with a fiddler crab (when he was sold to us, the pet store owner told us that he was a fiddler crab and we just figured he looked different than the fiddlers) and so we bought a fiddler at the time we bought the tank.  The two lived with each other for about three hours until we did some research to discover that Crabwell was actually a rainbow crab.  We moved his brief companion (Clawdette) to the smaller tank and let Crabwell be by himself.  Since that time, he only hides under his rock. Whenever he hears us around (we have a creaky wooden floor), he runs and hides.
I gave you this extensive summary of what happened so that perhaps you could pinpoint something that happened that may have caused his reclusive behavior.  Will Crabwell continue to be like this?

A:  Every crab I've seen will hide in a cave or crevice if he can find one.  Do not provide PVC pipe or a rock to hide under.  LA

Matt Moore, Chicago, IL, October 3, 2011
Does it provide a more comforatble environment if there are hiding places? In other words, is it better for the crab if there are hiding places?

A:  I have to say yes.  However, if you want to see your crab, eliminate the hiding places.  LA

Jzareau Proctor,  Denver, CO, October 3, 2011
Hey LA, I have a couple questions I have a foot long peacock bass and a foot long red bay snook, who appear to have spawning behavior. I thought they were both males and I have never heard of two males spawning before. Could you sex these two from these pictures. Also is it even possible for a peacock and a snook to spawn. I know members of the ( Parachromis family will spawn and have seen them and blood parrots will spawn with other cichlids without much success but have you ever heard of those two species mixing

JP

A:  I have never heard of these two species spawning, but I let my subscription to Cichlid Crossers Journal expire a few years ago.  Just because I've never heard of it macht's nichts.  In other words, sometimes I'm the last to know.  LA
PS  Nice pics.  They were so huge I didn't think I'd be able to shrink them to fit.

Jzareau Proctor,  Denver, CO, October 3, 2011
Sorry LA I just sent you an email about a bass and snook spawn and after watching them for a few more minutes the snook's breeding tube looks like a smaller version of my male oscar and I couldn't tell from the bass but it looked like a female but you have much more experience in sexing fish so I was wondering if you could sex them?  thanks again

A:  I really can't tell anything from the photos.  Could be you got something going.  Mules are usually sterile, but ¿quién sabe?  LA

vincent liew, Malaysia, October 3, 2011
Hi Larry, It has been long... hope you are doing fine. is the renovation completed?
i am now stick to keeping african cichlids and discus in two separate tanks. traded my american cichlids but left only 2 acara... 
i got myself the so called blue dolphin almost 2 months ago and they are growing up fine. but one thing puzzle me, it happened this morning... one of the blue fellow suddenly dashed here and there with frightening speed... i don't know why it behaved that way, banged into the glass a few times and spooked other fish.. what do you think happened? no one was around and i was just sitting in front of the tank only not doing anything.. i am changing the water twice a week and feeding them hikari pellets formulated for cichlids...
next, i got my discus also 2 months ago... i read in the internet that they will recognize their owner and learn to eat from the hand, don't know it's real or not. however my discus are afraid of me even after feeding everyday for 2 months... maybe they are still young? they are only 2 or 3inches only... do you think they will get used to me eventually?

LA
Another new window, October 3.

A:  Renovations still in progress.  I have no idea why your blue dolphin went bonkers.  Sometimes fish just get spooked (paranormal activity?).  Your discus will eventually mellow out and eat from your fingers.  LA

vincent liew, Malaysia, October 4, 2011
Bad news, Larry.. The blue dolphin became fish food yesterday.. Left only the skull and some skin.. I just realized that the hikari pellets I feed them are added with chili pepper.. Maybe it had eaten a very spicy pellet.. That was why it went bonkers.. Is hikari really really good? LFS keeps saying they are the best..
Hey, really big store you got there.. Wish I am somewhere around, then I can always visit.

A:  I like all the Hikari foods because my fish love them.  I agree with your LFS.  Sorry to hear your blue dolphin expired.  I doubt that red chilis were a factor, because I see that red rooster chili sauce at half the restaurants I enjoy.  Hikari probably adds the red chilis to increase the carotenoid contents of their foods.  Carotenoids bring out the reds (in fish, not so much in people).   LA

vincent liew, Malaysia, October 4, 2011
Larry, thanks for the explanation. well, i guess i will continue to feed them Hikari.. is white sand going to affect the African body color?

A:  White sand bleaches out many cichlids.  They try to "pale out" to help them blend into the substrate.  Many fish do the same thing but especially cichlids.  LA

vincent liew, Malaysia, October 8, 2011
No wonder they all look pale.. If that's the case, what type of substrate should I use? I know there are black gravels around but I am hoping to get something dark, fine as sand and not altering the water chemistry. Do the lighting and background play a part too?
Sorry for asking so many questions.. I really hope to see them grow up and display their adult color..

LA
2.5-inch jewel cichlid over white gravel.

LA
Same fish over black gravel.

LA
And some always color up better than others.

A:  Actually, one of the brownish "natural" gravels bring out their optimum colors.  That's the natural gravels from the Mississippi River basin.  Your natural gravels are probably different.  I don't like any of the sands I've encountered.  The dark clay-colored gravels probably would work well also.  I don't like the "blue-sea colored" backgrounds.  The plastic foliage backs look better to me.  Also, live plants and/or plastic plants give the fish a more comfortable feeling.  Diet, temperature, and age also affect their colors.  LA

vincent liew, Malaysia, October 10, 2011
Noted with thanks, Larry.. I am now using a power filter for the 55G tank which is housing about 40 Africans.. Seems like the filtration is not strong enough. Do you have any recommendation?
One other thing, how do I know I have fed them enough? They always seem hungry..

A:  You can add another filter, reduce their rations, change their water more often or all of the above.  Most cichlids act hungry most of the time.  They don't need to eat their fill at every meal.  Two or three small feeding per day are better than one belly buster.  You can tell they've had plenty when food starts hitting the bottom.
PS 
I forgot to mention the importance of the right light bulbs and even the angle at which the light hits your fish.  Front lighting usually works best.  LA

vincent liew, Malaysia, October 11, 2011
LOL... that's the problem... the pellets never have the chance to hit the bottom... if i give too little, afraid some of them never get the chance to eat especially my frontosa. they're kinda shy to come forward... if feeding too much, there's malawi bloat to worry about. if i feed them at alternate day, will i stunt their growth? let them fast for 1 day/week? maybe i will email some pics later and let you judge if i am feeding them correctly.
i heard that sponge filter provides good filtration and easy to clean. will it works well in a cichlid tank? will they tear it apart?

A:  African cichlids aren't too tough on sponge filters.  Large American cichlids are.  The ones above are very sturdy.  LA

Curtis Lee, Reardan, WA, October 4, 2011
Just thought you’d like these pics of a few giant, wild caught redtails.

A:  Hey.  I appreciate your efforts.  Those were cool redtails, but I can't print them because I'd probably be violating common law copyright laws.  Thanks anyway.  LA
PS 
Those do not look like hillbilly fishermen.

Heather Freeman, Greensboro, NC, October 6, 2011
Mantis question for you. We just discovered a baby in our house and want to try and raise him or her...what do we feed it?  Do we just catch small insects?It is winter and we are unsure of the availability of insects in the coming months.  This one is definitely smaller than a cricket...
I appreciate your response!


A: 
They usually start out by cannibalizing their siblings.  If you can find fruit fly cultures locally, problem solved.  Or start by putting a piece of banana in a small container in your backyard.  You should be quickly visited by hungry fruit flies.  When you see a few in the container, add him and add a lid.  Otherwise you could try to feed him by hand.  Go to Mantids, Newly Hatched for more info.  LA

 

J. Colvard, New Mexico, October 6, 2011
Hi again, I just wanted to throw out a comment/question on your pics of the turtles. I love turtles and have kept many throughout the years. Just wondering why you keep your turtles in a small aquarium. Need to put in an indoor pond setup to house your turtles for the room they need to be happy and healthy and also better filtration available so less time and frequency to clean. Not to tell ya how to run your business or anything but I do hate seeing turtles being held in small enclosures.

 

LA
Your backyard buffet is much healthier and provides much needed exercise.

A:  I couldn't agree with you more, but our enclosures are only temporary homes.  We usually keep about ten species of turtles and tortoises, so we provide smaller quarters than they need over the long haul.  Bigger is always better but not always possible.  A turtle pen in the backyard is always preferred but this is another temporary housing process.  I like to turn them loose in the grass occasionally also.  They like the exercise, the additional vitamin D exposure, and the occasional change of diet.  LA
PS 
Do not leave them outside unattended.

 

Al Smith, Melbourne, Australia, October 8, 2011
Hey I've been browsing your website and you've got some great information. One fish you say that you don't have an I.D on and have been calling it a Red Datinoid. In fact it's a Mangrove Jack. A very renouned sport fish off northern Australia. They start out with that banded patterns and more of a grey colour with some blue on the face and eventually get about 50cm long (20") and I believe have been reported at 22pounds. They can live in full marine, brackish, and fresh, but won't be happy in freshwater for long. They turn a dark red colour when mature and are very aggressive when kept with others of the same species. So they really do need a large, brackish species tank.
 Hope that helps for an I.D, here's a basic web page on them:
Regards
p.s Sorry if this is old news, I'm not sure how often you update your webpage and being in Australia I don't know much about American business.

 

LA
Called a red datnioid.  Is it?  Only showed up in 2003.  Fish eater of course.  Three inches.

 

A:  Hmm.  I thought I IDed it on my Datnioide Page, but I might have left it off one of the Miscellaneous Oddball pages, so I'm adding your info.  After all, a report from OZ is more official than a report from Des Moines.  LA

 

Ritam Ganguly,.Calcutta (as the Britishers call it) :), Oct 9, 2011
Hello LA!! :D :D  My 3 aquarium set up is nearly complete!! :)
But I have one question. For a few weeks now I have noticed a few red lines on one of the pectoral fins of my Osphronemus. He h\is an albino.
Is it anything to worry about?  :O
He has been behaving normally, very much playful in his new big tank and is eating normally too!!
He also has some red linings of capillaries (most probably) on his forehead. He has had these lines for a few years. Can they be fin hemorrhaging? :(
I am a bit tensed!! :(
Can you please guide me with your expert advice, LA? :(

 

A:  Since your Osphronmus is eating and acting normally, I would not worry about his health.  Sometimes red lines in finnage appear when oxygen levels get low.  You see this often in goldfish.  But since Osphronemus breathe atmospheric air, I doubt they'd display this symptom.  LA
PS 
Shukriya for the invite to join gmail.  I'll pass, but it did remind me to delete two or three hundred of the unread emails I intended to get around to reading sooner or later (it is now later).

 

kevin glover, Canada, October 10, 2011
I have been looking in pet stores and in the woods for years, and I finally found a spotted salamander. It was in my basement. I looked on your website but you don’t have much on spotted salamanders and you don’t have anything on tank size for any salamanders. My salamander is 5 and half inches. What can you feed them other than worms because no pet store around here sells earthworms.

 

LA
And they like goldfish.

 

A:  Spotted salamanders are pretty much like the tiger salamanders in our neck of the woods.  A 10 gallon tank meets their minimum needs. A 20L or larger works even better.  Salamanders will also eat mealworms, waxworms, California blackworms, and goldfish.  You can train them to eat one of those jellied reptile foods by waggling it in front of them on a toothpick.  Has Walmart invaded Canada yet?  Both Walmart and Kmart sell earthworms and Canadian nightcrawlers in their sporting goods departments.  Or you can find them in your local bait shops or dig them up in your backyard.  Any outdoor hunting or fishing magazine will also sell red wigglers in their classified ads section.  LA

 

kevin glover, Canada, October 10, 2011
Thanks, and how long should it take for it to get used to fish tank life, since I just caught it today. 

 

A:  Ten minutes.  LA

 

DeAnn Orendorff, October 10, 2011
RE  Raphael catfish:  I found your website when researching the life expectancy of this fish we have had for nearly 4 years. Surprised to find out they can live much longer than dogs!
Our 8 inch long fish, named Appalachian due to the mountain and valley texture of the body, has just lost all whiskers. The "lips" appeared chapped and red. The redness has healed, but only two short "feelers"" under the mouth remain. This happened about a week after a complete tank change. Eating subsided for a couple of days, but appears to be eating now. Is whisker loss normal? Will the whiskers grow back? Any info will help.


LA

 

A:  Catfish lose their whiskers from three different conditions that I know of:  They wear them off on a rough substrate, lose them in the course of a bacterial infection, or have them dissolved in unsatisfactory water conditions.  I have not seen any grow back.  LA

 

DeAnn Orendorff, October 10, 2011
Can they survive without them?


A:  Yes.  However, if they lost them due to a bacterial infection, the infection could continue and eventually kill them.  LA

DeAnn Orendorff, January 2, 2011
FYI-Their Whiskers do grow back. This has happened twice in the 5 year life s[an of the fish to date.

A:  Good to know.  LA

 

Jason, Iowa, October 10, 2011

I've had my eel for over 2 years now with no problems. It is housed in my 125 gal along with an assortment of other fish, big and small. Mine is about 2ft long and eats HBH Super Cichlid Sinkers (I noticed that you've never seen or heard of eels eating them) It is the most peaceful creature in my tank and very entertaining as it darts all over the place in search of what? I dunno. I add human edible sea salt I buy in bulk from a health food store but not enough to consider it brackish and it does just fine. I also add diatomaceous earth which hardenss the ph and kills parasites without any harm to the fish. It will go months without eating then eat like a pig for a few weeks. Just thought I send this info. I need to make my way back to your store, I bought a bearded dragon from ya once. you are all very nice people.              
Thought I'd send ya a pic of my eel so ya'd know I was talking about a moray and not a spiny. He's hard to get a good pic of. I call it One Eye, since it's missing its right eye since I got it.
Fellow fish lover, Jason

 

J

 

A:  Good to hear you're happy with your moray eel.  Looks like he's eating well.  I'll have to try the HBH Super Sinkers.  I'm not familiar with diatomaceous earth killing parasites.  Supposedly it kill roaches (and similar pests) by getting into their joints and evntually causing them to die. This has not been my experience.  LA

 



 



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