How to Care for Your Super Worms
Aqualand's inside scoop on Zophobus morio
Misc Frogs II
Misc Frogs III
Misc Frogs IV
Misc Frogs V
Pet World Visit
Lots of superworms -- and that's just the top.
Origin. Frankly, I don’t know where these feisty
Un-Worms. First, superworms are really insects – the larval form of a chunky beetle. Excuse us for calling them worms. But, gee, mom, everyone else does it.
Size. Superworms weigh in at a hefty two inches long. You will not feed these guys to small lizards. You can get a good idea of their size from their picture.
Biters. Don’t toss a raft of these guys in with your lizard regardless of size. These guys can bite. They’ll bite your lizard (and you) – especially if you overfeed. Superworms even gnaw their way out of those hard plastic cups they are sold in. They start chewing on one of the pin-sized air holes and make it large enough to wriggle out of.
Feeding Technique. If
you just toss your superworms into your lizard tank, they will burrow
into your lizard’s substrate and “bug” your hungry lizard later.
Put them into a slick-sided container with sides too high for them
to clamber out of – sort of a lizard buffet.
Recent Instars. Superworms that just finished “molting” are softer and easier to chew. Doubting Thomas? Try a test bite or two.
Increase Their Nutrition. You
can successfully keep your superworms in the original medium they came in.
But before you feed them to your critter of choice, you may want to
gut load them or as the Governator says “We will plump them up.”
Put them in a small container with a highly nutritious food – any
of the cricket gut loading foods will work.
We use chicken egg-laying mash.
You cannot dust them like crickets because of their Teflon-like
Housing. Any kind of slick-sided container with a ventilated top will work. A tightly sealed lid runs up the humidity and encourages mold.
Culture Medium. We tried
some different media and finally came back to plain old bran.
Superworms, eat, hide in, and breed in their media.
It will probably last two months before they totally consume it.
We prefer carrots as their water source.
Without the carrots, they devour each other for moisture.
You find a lot of dried heads with no bodies attached.
Potatoes and apples also work but not as well.
Apples seem to increase the humidity too high.
Capturing. Catching superworms one at a time is time-consuming but it will help you learn that they bite. Use a colander with the right size holes to “separate the worms from the chaff” so to speak. Drop them into a non-chewable container and feed them out as needed.
Capturing Hint. If you
leave something opaque on the surface, many of your superworms will
congregate immediately below its surface. They
do not like the light and prefer to spend most of their time below the surface of
You actually have to force superworms to pupate. Otherwise, they
remain larvae. The ones that curl up (above) tend to pupate
successfully in a couple of weeks. Some people use those tubes film
comes in You gotta punch a small hole in it. Add a bit of bran
and check every so often. We use that 24-section tackle box
above. It costs $3 and lets you see all your potential pupae with a
minimum of effort. Separating the individual larvae protects the pupae from
their cannibalistic brethren.
© 2005 LA Productions
3600 Sixth Avenue
Corner of Sixth & Euclid Avenues
Des Moines, IA 50313
Betta Breed 1
Betta Breed II
Betta Pla Kat
Pleco Costly I
Pleco Costly II
Pleco Costly III
Pleco Costly IV
Pleco Costly VI
Misc. Catfish II
Misc. Catfish III
More Oscar II
More Oscars III
More Red Devil
Red Bay Snooks
Roger Stephen's Cichlids
Misc Cichlids I
Misc Cichlids II
Misc Cichlids III
Misc Cichlids IV
Misc Cichlids V
Misc Cichlids VI
(Austral & Irian)
Gold Oriental II
Michael Troung's Pix
Chin Alg Eater
Siam Algae Eater
Misc. Odd II
Misc. Odd III
Misc. Odd IV
Chinese Hi-Fin Banded
Siam Algae Eater