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How to Start a Successful Aquarium The
Inside Scoop on Your
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Decorating
How
to Start
Sponge
Filters
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PicHere's a 10-gallon tank because most people start with a 10. Pick the Largest Possible Tank The larger your tank, the easier. Larger tanks use larger filters. Their larger volume of water also dilutes the bad effects of some of the most common mistakes of beginners: ● Overfeeding; Beware
Sudden Changes. Sudden
changes in population, temperature, pH, ammonia, and nitrite can cause BIG
problems FAST in small tanks. The
larger your tank, the less you need to worry about how closely you
“follow the rules” -- ours, yours, or anyone else’s.
Test
for Leaks. Never put your
tank on top of a TV or stereo system.
Even non-leaky tanks splash and bubble – particularly when you
clean them. And always test
for leaks before you decorate your tank.
You can’t put fish in it today, so use part of your waiting
period to test for leaks – before adding any chemicals or decorations to
your aquarium setup. Put
it in the Right Place. Once
you put water in your tank, you don’t
want to move it. Even a
10-gallon tank weighs 100 pounds. Keep
it away from sunny windows, drafts, high-traffic areas, unsupervised play
areas, air conditioning and heating vents.
Always put your tank on a level surface. You Need
Electrical Outlets. Pick a
place with an electrical outlet unused by other sources.
For your: ● Air
pump; You
need at least three outlets. Your
hardware store sells a multi-outlet surge protector or you can use a
heavy-duty grounded extension cord. Use
an Under Gravel Filter. With
a UG filter, your air pump pulls water through your gravel and up your air
lift tubes. As water flows
through the gravel it aerates billions of bacteria that it drifts past.
Bacteria help convert liquid fish wastes and dissolve solid fish
wastes. UG
Filters Biologically. Two
tribes of helpful bacteria -- the Nitrosomonas (sorry no photo on
file) and the Nitrobacters (ditto) -- convert harmful
Power
Filter Note:
Some people prefer power filters over under gravel filters.
Of the two types of filters, we strongly recommend the under gravel
filter. They never wear out --
unless Eric pushes a gravel vacuum cleaner thru your filter plate.
They’re easy to maintain, economical, and efficient.
Best of all, they convert poisonous fish wastes to harmless
substances. However, when you
add a power filter, you get the best of both worlds.
The two working together make a great combo.
Use
Aquarium Gravel. Avoid
sand and large, lumpy gravel. Sand
sifts through the slots in your filter.
It also “packs.” Big
lumpy rocks don’t allow your bottom filter to work right.
Regular aquarium gravel always works best -- natural or colored.
Use 1 ½ pounds of
gravel per gallon of water as a rough estimate.
If you want to raise live plants or build interesting terraces, you probably need more
gravel.
Add
Your Heater. Tropical fishes
need 75 to 80o. The new submersible heaters work
so great, we can’t over-recommend them.
They cost three times as much as the printed circuit ones, and they’re
worth it. By the way,
there’s an easier way to set your printed circuit heater than it says on
the box. ● Attach
your heater. ● Plug
in your heater. ● Let it set for five minutes. ● Add
enough hot water to warm your tank to 75o ● Then
crank up your heater till your “pilot light” comes on. You’re
all set. The submersible
heaters are easier yet. You
just dial the temperature you want. You’re
done. Use
Right Size-Heater. Plain
and not so plain goldfish survive without a heater just fine.
But if you prefer the exotics (goldfish as well as tropicals), you
need a heater. A constant
temperature helps prevent diseases – especially parasites such as ich.
You need about five watts per gallon.
In a cool basement, you’ll need a much larger heater than normal. Schedule
Regular Maintenance. It
takes only 20 to 60 minutes per week to maintain an aquarium -- including
feeding time. ● Feed
small amounts twice a day. ● Change
your filter cartridges every 4 to 8 weeks. ● Use
your gravel cleaner weekly. ● Change
25% of your water per week. ● Add
water conditioner (and salt to taste). ● Wipe your inside front glass weekly. Yes, you may get your hannies wet. ● Wipe
your outside front glass weekly. Age
Your Water. Avoid putting
your fishes in fresh water straight out of the faucet.
Add
a Water Conditioner. Always
age water at least 24 hours -- more if possible and add a water
conditioner.
This rule also applies to any water
changes greater than 20%. Oscars
and other large fishes will survive water changes up to 50%, because
they’re much tougher than little
fishes. Use a Fluorescent Light The
fish don’t need a light – you do.
You want the light so you can see your fascinating new pets.
Fluorescent lights work best because: ● They last longer. ● They cost less to run. ● They enhance fish colors. Incandescent
fixtures cost about 10 bucks less at first, but cost more in the first two
years just from replacing the bulbs. We
strongly recommend fluorescent lights.
Decorate
Your Tank Many fish need
nooks and crannies for security. In
the wild, their ability to hide keeps them out of predators’ bellies.
In your tank, they need the same feeling of security.
Once they adjust to their new quarters, they’ll come right out
and show off.
Other
Decor. Wood,
rocks, and plants make a natural aquascape. But fish
(actually fish keepers) also like
sunken ships, ceramic skulls, resin rocks, and other ornaments.
Just avoid bare tanks -- except for breeding or quarantine
tanks. Fish
are easy to keep, educational, fascinating, beautiful, and fun. LA © 1980, © 2003, © 2004, © 2005 LA Productions
3600 Sixth Avenue Corner of Sixth & Euclid Avenues Des Moines, IA 50313 515 283-0300 |
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