Aqualand Q&As April 16-30, 2006

 
Amphibians
Axolotls
Caecilian Worm
Chaco Toad
Mud Puppies

Newts General
Newts Eastern
Newts Golden

Newts Mandarin
Salamanders
Suriname Toad
Tadpoles
Terrarium I
Terrarium II
USA Toads
Water Dogs
Misc. Toads

Frogs
Bull
Clawed
Dumpy
Dwarf
Fire-Belly
Floating
Green Tree
Leopard
Pac Man
Pipa pipa
Pyxie
Red-Eyed Tree
Tomato
Misc Frogs 
Misc Frogs II
Misc Frogs III
Misc Frogs IV

Misc Frogs V

Animals
Bunnies
Bunnies II 
Chinchillas
Degus
Ferrets
Ferrets by BOB
Gerbils
Ground Squirrels
Guinea Pig
Hamsters I
Hamsters II
Hamsters III
Hamsters IV
Hamsters V
Hedgehogs
Kittens
Kids & Kittens
Mice
Mice Pets II
Parasites
Rats I
Rats II
Rats III
Rats, Hairless
S-T Opossums
Siberian Chipmunks
Sugar Gliders
Sugar Gliders II
Water Bottles

Bugs
Crabby 500
Crab 04 Results
Centipedes
Cray/Lobsters
Crayfish II
Crayfish III
Cray, Yucatan
Fiddler Crabs
Shrimp, Algae
Shrimp, Aqua
Shrimp, Red
Shrimp, Flower

Shrimp, Ghost
Shrimp, Rudolph
Hermit Crabs
Hermit Crabs II
Madagas Roach
Mantids
Mini-Clams
Mini-Crabs
Patriot Crabs
Giant Millipedes
Red Claw Crabs
Reiman Butterfly
Snail, Apple
Snail, Colombian
Snail, Land
Snail, Malaysian

Snail, Mystery
Snail, Trapdoor 
Scorpions
Tarantulas
Tarantulas II
Tarantula Night 2006
TarantulaWeen VII
TarantulaWeen 9
Misc. Bugs
Misc Bugs II  

Birds
Breeding Tips

Button Quail
Canaries

Cockatiels
Dove, Diamond
Dove, Ringneck
Finches
Love Birds
Parakeets
Pelleted Foods
Quaker Parrots

Parrot Pictures
Parrot Pix II

Parrot Pix III
Dave's Parrots


Lizards
Alligators
Anoles
Bearded Dragon

Beardies II
Calotes
Chamel, Jackson
Chamel, Panther
Chamel, Veiled
Crested Geckos
Gecko, Golden

Gecko, House
Gecko, Leopard
Gecko, Tokay
Horned "Toads"
Iguana New
Iguana Dragons
Iguana Q&A I
Iguana Q&A II
Iguana Training
Iguana Update
Cool Iguana Pics
Knight Anoles
Monitors, Nile

Monitors, Savana
Monitors, Water

Salmonella
Skinks
Skinks Blue-Tongue
Tegus
Uromastyx maliensis
Water Dragon
Misc Lizards
Misc Lizards 2
Misc Lizards 3
Misc Lizards 4
Misc Lizards 5

Misc Lizards 6
Misc Lizards 7
Misc Lizards 8
Misc Lizards 9


Snakes
Anacondas
Boa, Rosy

Boa, Red-Tail
Corn Snake
Garter Snake
Green Snake
Kids/Corn Snakes
Kids/Red-Tail Boas

Kids at Pet Expo 1

Kids at Pet Expo 2

Kids at Pet Expo 3

Kids at Pet Expo 4

Kids at Pet Expo 5
King & Milk
Python, Ball
Python, Burmese

Snakes Alive
Snakesgiving
Snakesgiving II

Misc Snake Pix
Misc Snakes II

Misc Snakes III  

Turtles/Tortoises
Box, Asian
Box, USA
Races
Snapping

Sulcata
Water

Western Painted

Live Foods
Blackworms
Blood Worms
Br Shrimp I
Br
Shrimp II
Crayfish 1
Crayfish 2
Crayfish 3 
Crickets
Daphnia
Earthworms
Feeder Goldfish
Fruit Flies
Ghost Shrimp

Glass Worms

Grindal Worms
Infusoria
Mealworms
Microworms
Rosy Reds

Super Worms

Wax Worms
White Clouds

 

Decorating
Bubbles
Driftwood
Gravel
Plastic Plants
Rocks
Slow Growing Plants

Miscellaneous
Bob's Acclimation

How to Start
How to Add New Fish
How to Keep Healthy
Which Fish Get Along?
10 Questions to Ask
What is Ich?
Under Gravel Filters

Sponge Filters
Cloudy Water

Cool Water Tanks
Gravel Vacuums
Preventing Disease
Feeding to the Max
Frozen Foods
Green Water
Nasty Chemicals
Overfeeding
Power Filters
Rift Lake Salts
Quarantine Tank
Mini-Tank
2nd Av Bait

Pet World Visit
Dandelions

Aquatic Plants
Amazon Swords
More Swords
Sword Plants III

Anubias
Aponogetons
A. boivinianus
A. fenestralis
A. ulvaceous
Aquarium/Bog
Banana Plant
Bolbitis
Bunch
Bunch Plants II
Cryptocorynes
Crystalwort
Dwarf Lily
Grassy
Grassy II
Hornwort
Hygrophila
Lace
Java Lance Fern
Java Moss
Moss Balls
Onion
Vermiculite

Watersprite

 

Sorry.  I lost the 16th and 17th Q&As because I turned my computer off during a severe weather warning.  And, I lost a rather eloquent treatment of the excellent spring weather also.  I guess that's why most programs have that "save" button.  LA

ZBWP, April 18, 2006
I am just setting up a fiddler and I was looking at your web site and you said that you only need to add a teaspoon of salt to their water per gallon and I was reading another web site and it told me to add 8 tablespoons of salt to their water per gallon. So I was wondering what is the actual amount of salt to add? If a teaspoon is not enough, how would I know to add more salt to the water? What kind of food should I feed them and am I going to need to have a separate freshwater dish for them to drink and a food dish also? I was also wondering how many fiddler crabs can I permanently keep in a 10 gallon tank that is half land half water?

A:  Fiddler crabs live in a variety of habitats.  I suspect they'd do fine with either salinity level.  I keep mine at 1 tsp/gal.  I feed them the hermit crab meal because they appear to like it and come running when I put it out.  They're scavengers and undoubtedly would eat whatever you gave them.  It's just easier for them to eat tiny foods.  Give them a food dish.  If you have half water and half land, they don't need a water dish.  Six seem to get along fine in a ten.  LA 

Mike Chamberlain, April 18, 2006
Hey I've got one of these. LFS said it came in with feeder guppies. They thought it was a loach but has no barbells and fins are not quite right. Did you ever find out what it was? I sure do enjoy the one I have. Thanks,

A:  Mine came in with our box of feeder ghost shrimps.  We get three or four of them per 1,000 ghost shrimp.  Inch-long fish can be tough to identify.  Probably some type of Florida darter.  That's my best guess.  LA

Mike Chamberlain, April 18, 2006
Pretty dog-gone good guess! Thanks! I couldn't have figured it out without your help!

A:  Alright, then.  LA

Valerie Busch, Maryville, MO, April 19, 2006
RE aqualandpetsplus.com
I am appalled by all the false information on your page. Being a small animal breeder most of my life, I know about 80% of the “facts” on your page are wrong wrong wrong!
General Small animal information:
Breeding Practices and Diseases: On your hamster page, you say that “taking babies away from mom before 6 weeks will make them more susceptible to wet tail”. Any owners who don’t know any better could do that and *whoops* all their babies AND mom are pregnant before they ever should be. In fact, hamsters and other small rodents (mice, gerbils, etc.) should NEVER be bred before they’re at least 12 weeks old for health reasons. Studies have shown that rodents that are over-bred (result of keeping males and females together) or bred at an early age have much shorter life-spans due to unneeded stress of the litters! Not to mention that it’s like your 12 yr. old kid having babies (something that can cause so many complications that it’s not even funny.)
And another thing: unless they are dwarf hamsters (Roborovskis, Campbells, Russian dwarfs, and Chinese.), hamsters should NEVER be housed with another hamster! Not only are Syrian hamsters very much territorial, they are solitary except during mating, and even then they separate pretty quickly once the female is pregnant. And speaking of pregnant hamsters, they do NOT tend to be more aggressive than the non-pregnant ones. Yes, you want to be careful and mostly leave her and the babies alone, but if she knows you very well (another reason not to breed before 12 weeks or later) then she will act pretty much the same as she always did towards you.
Diets: Hamsters should NEVER be forced to eat ONLY “Lab blocks”! They NEED their “variety diet” of seeds and other things provided in products such as Kaytee hamster and gerbil food. Lab blocks should only be used for mice and rats, and that is in addition to a seed/vegetable diet!
Mouse Information:
If your cute little pet mouse escapes, it becomes a wild mouse in a few days.  Keep your mice well covered.  They’re determined little escapers.”
Not true! Pet mice (not ones caught from the wild, but bought from a pet store) are quite content to live in their habitats, provided there are enough things for him/her to do. And domestic mice do not become a “wild mouse” ever. In fact, they tend to die within a few days, due to the fact that their natural instincts are mostly bred out of them (including their ability to resist diseases).
“Males will also whup up on new females.  Females are less territorial but will often tear into new females.  If you mix populations, you will cause lots of needless fights.  Rats will argue when you mix them, but they seldom fight to the death.  Rats like to wrestle for dominance, but they don’t eat the losers.  Mice, on the other hand, are killers.”
Males generally will allow new females to come in (due to the want to mate). Females won’t “often tear into new females”, in fact none of my mice ever have (and no, I’m not just “lucky”). Rats DO end up killing each other when they fight IF it isn’t intervened in time. Mixing female mice won’t cause “needless fights”, but putting male mice together will. And once and for all, mice are not “killers”.
You obviously like mice more than I do.  I don’t like the way they smell.  I don’t like the way they bite.  I don’t like the way they destroy food.  I don’t like the way the males leave a little trail of urine where they run.  There were no dead mice on that page.  The pinkie crawled inside that peanut shell on its own.  No mice or other rodents were harmed or mistreated in the making of the Mouse Page.  Get over it. “
First off, mice don’t smell if you clean their cages properly and leave one item that has some of their scent on it so they don’t feel they have to mark their cage all over again as much.
Second of all, mice don’t generally bite. I’ve been bitten by hamsters about 40 times (approximately) and only “nibbled” at ONCE by one of my mice and that was only because I made a mistake and my hand smelled like food (and it didn’t even break the skin, imagine that!). Males of all species “mark” their territory, which includes male mice. And they don’t leave it all the time, only when they feel something needs their scent (like the insides of the cage or their special human friends).
And about Leah’s page: she’s right, you’re wrong, get over it and use her page to replace yours. Mice deserve the same respect as a cat or dog.
About Ball Pythons:

  1. they are too biters. I don’t personally own one, but my boyfriend has one and he has been bitten several times in attempts to remove it from his cage.

  2. They do NOT “ball up” when scared, they “ball up” because they’re in what herps call “mouse mode”, meaning that he’s hungry and he/she thinks that you’re either food or going to provide food.

  3. “Ball pythons often come to pet shops directly from Africa .” Ok, stop right there. That is the main reason that any reptile should never be a pet. The fact that most of them come from the wild is the reason that many species are starting to become extinct!

  4. “Always provide a hide box.” They do not need one at all. They are perfectly content with a specialized “branch” to climb in and a clean corner to sleep in.

  5. “If you feed your ball python live prey, whack your rat before you give it to your snake” Many ball pythons never get big enough to eat any size of rat. And snakes should NEVER be fed live prey. Not only is it painful and traumatizing for the rat/mouse/rabbit to die this way, the snake itself can become seriously injured (and not because of “balling up” either.). Plus, you should NEVER “whack” a rat or any animal. If you did that to any other animal, you would have the ASPCA on your business and you would be put in JAIL!

  6. “Excess water gives ball pythons a blister-like skin infection that often proves fatal.” Not true. That would be from BAD water, such as polluted.

Needless to say, you should either take your page off the internet permanently OR take it off and do some research BEFORE putting it back up!! Any new pet owner could read this bullshit and take your advice and end up with a dead pet thanks to you. Do you want that on your conscience?

A:  Thanks for your letter.  You are entitled to your opinion.  You obviously like rodents way more than I do.  But not as much as snakes do.  Any answer I gave you would only irritate you, so try to have a nice day.  LA

 

Valerie Busch, Maryville, MO, April 19, 2006
It’s not just my opinion; it’s the FACTS of scientists and other breeders like myself! So if you would be so kind and FIX your stupid, idiotic errors before you get a lawsuit on your hands for supplying some stupid person (who just so happens to stumble onto your site and happens to take your advice) false information. If you do not fix your errors, I WILL report you and your “business” to the appropriate authorities! And I know that is the LAST thing you want.

A:  Do what you gotta do.  LA

Andre, April 19, 2006
Two days ago I saw 2 of my Mystery Snails together! The medium size male Snail had his white penish in the bigger Mystery Snail's shell on the side! Now that they've mated together, when does the female mystery Snail go above the waterline to do her egg laying? Does it happen right away when it's dark in the tank? Or does it take a few weeks before she's ready? My waterline is between 3 and 4 inches so that's ok. I put the waterline down a week ago before they mated together! I heard having too many fake plants in the tank crowds the space when the snails go up the tank walls, so I took a few plants out and I just have 2 small plants in the tank now and all the tank walls are free and clear of plants rubbing on the glass! Now the Snails have space when they are climbing on the glass!

A:  Mystery snails contain both sexes in each individual.  They undoubtedly fertilized each other.  So you may see two clusters of eggs.  When?  I have no way of knowing.  LA

Milton Jordan, Chicago, April 19, 2006
I'm interested in buying two or three Liosomadoras oncinus (Jaguar catfish). I live in Chicago, Illinois. Do you have these in stock and can I purchase some?. Please let me know what the cost is. I will buy them. Best Regards,

A:  We don't ship fish.  And unfortunately, that jaguar catfish in the picture is the only one we've had.  It was probably a couple years ago.  We haven't seen them on any lists lately.  Ironically, we got the fish from Chicago.  LA 

Jjdynomiteeee, April 20, 2006
I have a few questions.  Since I know for sure my corn snakes have mated, do I:
1.  keep feeding her all the way up until she has the eggs (if she will eat that far into her pregnancy) or do I stop feeding her once she becomes noticeably gravid?
2.  also, when she has the eggs can I keep them in the rectangle critter keepers?  (picture below) Or can I just keep the eggs in a regular 20 gallon tank (previously used for my snakes but I can clean it out). I have an extra heat lamp for the heat, and I have peat moss and if needed I can buy some vermiculite. Also, if I can't use  the tank I used for my snakes because there is a heating  pad on it, then I have a 10 gallon with no heating pad on it if that's better.
Pictures: These are taking from the top and both sides

 

Here's a quote from Dr. Shawn R. Lockhart, Ph.D. who runs a site called Hawkeye Herps

Once breeding has taken place the female will start eating like crazy for a period of two to three weeks and then just stop completely. Don't try to feed a female you suspect is gravid. Sometimes you can feel the eggs as the female glides over your hand, other times you will notice that her cross sectional shape has become triangular where the eggs push up on the spine. The time between breeding and egg laying is 3-4 weeks. For laying, I use a plastic shoebox with one inch of moist vermiculite and one inch of sphagnum moss. The females usually lay 8-14 days after their post mating shed. I keep the eggs half buried in moist vermiculite in a closed Tupperware container at a constant temp of 83 degrees F in a Hovabator incubator. I also fill the bottom of the Hovabator with water to raise the relative humidity. The eggs generally hatch in 45-50 days and the babies are kept together in a sweater bow with a large bowl of water until their first shed, which happens in 7-10 days.

Andrea Reynolds, April 21, 2006
I just wanted to thank you for all your information on anoles and geckos. We recently adopted three anoles and one gecko (my son caught them outside around our house) and your website had the best insights as to how to care for them, not to mention all the great photos with very entertaining quips under them. I've never enjoyed research as much as I did with these guys. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to help anyone who wants it.
Sincerely,

A:  Thanks.  That's why I put up the site.  LA

Jaimie Kennedy, Iowa, April 21, 2006
I have a question about my goldfish.  He is an Oranda, and we got him at your store a little over a year ago.  This morning I noticed that he is floating around upside down.  He will just sit there at the top of the tank upside down.  He tries to correct himself once in a while, but it's like he can't keep himself right side up.  Other than this, he seems to be fine.  Have you seen this before??  Is he dying??

A:  We see this all the time.  Orandas and other fancy goldfish frequently turn up-side down.  We usually "cure" it with a dollar's worth of duckweed.  We put "cure" in quotes because the up-side down syndrome usually recurs.  LA 

Tim Hamblin, UK, April 22, 2006
I am creating a new mini fire-bellied toad website (http://spaces.msn.com/fire-bellied-toads), and have added your website links on it (as they are currently in My Favourites).  I hope you are happy for them to be listed, else please let me know. Many thanks for the information your sites have provided me.

A:  Always good to get info from the UK.  LA

Lori Potter, April 22, 2006
A week ago I got a young lionhead goldfish for my 8 gallon coldwater tank.  He only has a snail for company.  It's been a week and he still hides when I enter the room.  If he's alone for a long time, I can spot him swimming around scavenging the gravel for food leftovers.  Is he just shy or lonely?  Should I add another goldfish, or is my tank too small for a second one?  What type of goldfish would I add?  He sure is cute!  Thanks for your advice.

A:  Goldfish seem more comfortable when kept with other goldfish.  Seems the competition encourages more activity and more hunger.  A pearlscale would make a nice addition.  Although, any other fancy goldfish would work just as well.  Go with what you like rather than what I like at a particular point in time.  LA

Valerie, April 22, 2006
You must be an expert breeder because you have all those animals. We breed finches, too. Now we only have one pair. We gave away all the rest. This pair keeps laying egg. If they hatch, they almost instantly die. If they lay eggs, they almost never hatch. Is it us or is it their mother? We know she's old enough to breed. Is it because we're inbreeding her.
And I have three male rabbits, one dwarf Holland mix, a Holland lop, and a mini rex. Two of the males want to fight all the time. My Holland sits in a corner and doesn't move much.
What do you think of my fire belly toad tank? My female toad is ready to spawn. May I have some tips?

Expert A:  On some critters.  Definitely not all.
Finch A: 
Separate that pair.  She's breeding too often.  She needs more time to recuperate.  Separate them for at least one month.  Two would be better.  And make sure she's getting a good diet.  Add one of the pelleted foods.  And add calcium.
Rabbit A:  Male rabbits fight.  Your Holland is probably too young or too small to mix it up.  Each male needs his own cage.  
Red Belly A:  I gave you all my toad tips on April 12.  That's all I know.  LA

Paul Gausman, April 23, 2006
I saw your page about Goby Dragon fish and hope you can answer a question or two for me.
I bought a Goby Dragon about a month ago or more. It was shy at first, but became very sociable in the last week or so. Before that, he hid and only swam around in the dark at night. For the last week, he was out swimming with all the other fish all day.
He displayed the strange (?) habit of swimming vertically and seemed to like to stick his nose out of the water a lot. I noticed two days ago that he had a large bubble on his underside just before his lower fin (the long one that runs from his belly to his tail tip). Yesterday, he died and I found him stuck to the intake on the filter.
Do Gobies often gulp air? What could the bubble be? What could I have done when I saw the bubble if that was an indication of an affliction?
Thanks!

A:  Dragon gobies often swim into the corner and bob at the surface.  I always figured they were looking for a way out.  I really can't help you on the bubble problem.  Sounds like a weakness in the wall of his stomach or intestines.  About the only technique I could recommend is to isolate him so the others would not pick on him.  Dragons can be picky eaters when new.  They learn to eat flakes eventually and that may have been the root cause of his early demise.  LA

Dawnell Miller, Medford, OH, April 23, 2006
I found your site about a year and a half ago, when I first started keeping tropical fish. I have found a lot of useful information that I'm sure has kept a lot of my fish alive. Yesterday I purchased two female bettas to keep just as pets, not for breeding. I have them in a 29 gallon community tank. They are the brightest fish in the tank and very pretty, but I need more info on them. Is their care close to the same as a male. Thank You

A:  Treat them just like you treat your males.  Females are much less pugilistic to one another.  But if they've been kept separated for an extended period, females will fight.  However, even two males would probably coexist in a 29 gallon community tank.  LA
PS  Make sure they get their share of the  food.  Bettas are really slow in the chow line.  

Bill Day, Rome, ME, April 23, 2006
I recently bought 2 cichlids from Wal-Mart, which were in with the feeder goldfish, and needless to say I got them for 30 cents each. They are beginning to color up, as I put them in my tropical community tank. But my problem is, I can't identify them. The larger one is shaped like most American cichlids, such as firemouths, etc, but it is silver-grey with very faint stripes, not a convict, as that was my first thought. I do have larger tanks, if he is going to grow larger. But it would be nice to know what he is. Enclosed are two of the best pics I could get of him, as there was little light. And he is perhaps 1 inch. Hopefully you can help me ID this fish. I am not going to bother trying to take pics of the smaller cichlid, as he is very small. Hopefully I can ID him when he gets a little larger. Thanks, 

A:  Centrarchids look a lot like cichlids.  Start by looking into green sunfish.  They have invaded Maine.  LA

Dylan Shearier, April 23, 2006
Sorry if I'm sending too many things but there's one more thing I need to point out on your gar page.
It concerns the needlenose gar, rocket gar, and the south american gar. If you don't already know they are not gars at all. The needlenose FISH is actually a member of the family belonidae, or needlefish, they are commonly mislabeled as gars as to their likeness. The rocket gar (commonly labeled hijueta gar) and south American gar are actually characins. The needlenose fish usually stops growing at 9-10 inches, but there are reports of some 13-14 inch individuals out there. The same with the hijuetas, but in the wild supposedly they get about 20 inches+, the south Americans are said to stop at about 5 inches. I've never kept the south Americans, so couldn't tell you much about them. I have a profile on needlenoses and coming soon hijuetas, so I can give you the link to it if you like.
Personally hijuetas and needlenoses (more so needlenoses) are my favorite fish and I have kept them numerous times and soon plan to see if I can breed some NNs. There is little to none info on these two fish on the internet and anywhere else, so I try to help out whenever I can with them. lol.

A:  Good to know, Dylan.  I'm adding your comments to our gar page.  Send me your profile address, and I'll add it also.  LA

Jonna Campbell, CFB Aviary, Tulsa, OK, April 24, 2006
On the page where you have some pictures of ringneck doves and what you are calling a handfed nanday is in reality a green cheek conure. It looks nothing like a nanday. Nanday's are green with a Black Head.

A:  Thanks.  "Mea culpa" as the Romans used to say.  LA
PS:  I added your helpful correction below the picture.  Thanks.

ibh, April 24, 2005
Would an electric cat and an osphronemus gourami live alone in the same tank?

A:  Probably, at least when small.  The larger the fish, the more your chances decrease.  The larger your tank, the more your chances increase.  LA

Dylan Shearier, April 24, 2006
Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm pretty sure that they are not sunfish. I have been catching centrarchids, both bass and sunfish, since I was knee high to a grasshopper, so to speak. I did originally explore this possibility, but the fish in question more resembles a Central or South American cichlid. Any other suggestions?

A:  I need a clearer picture.  LA

Dennis and Dena Christo, April 24, 2006
Do you have any land snails yet?

A:  None so far this year.  LA

Chrissy, April 25, 2006
I want to purchase the hamster cage that's on the pic? Who's the maker? Please email me. Thanks,

A:  Penn Plax.  LA

Helen Wills, April 25, 2006
Hi, may I ask why your leos look so skinny and unhealthy?
Being a breeder of these myself, I am concerned that you are giving out the wrong advice on the care of these animals and may be causing unnecessary suffering to other animals.

LA
The skinnier guys need extra rations.  Sometimes the bigger guys intimidate the others.

A:  If you mean this series of six skinny babies, we just bought these at a Reptile Exhibition.  We'd had them about two hours.  They were in those little deli cups.  We separated them by size and got them fattened up in about four to six weeks.  LA

Joe Bowersox, Polk City, IA, April 25, 2006
Hi Larry, I've purchased many African cichlids from you over the years, so I am used to "packing them in" if you will.  I have recently emptied my 75 gallon saltwater and I want to stock it with Angelfish. 
How many small/medium sized Angelfish can I stock in a well-planted and well-structured 75 gallon aquarium?  Do they find comfort in numbers like other cichlids?  I do not plan on having any other species in the tank with them, except a few platies for color.
Thanks for the great website……….by far the best website for our hobby that I have found.  A tip of the cap to your staff at the store.  Always friendly and full of knowledge.

A:  Put in 20 youngsters and thin them to 10 or 12 as they grow.  You can't shoehorn them like African cichlids.  And when they pair off (in a year or so), you'll probably want to yank the pairs.  LA

Brian Lauritsen, Metairie (near New Orleans), LA, April 25
I just finished building a very extensive Iguana cage which is ready for occupancy complete with many branches and UVB lighting source.  I don't really have the time or money to drive out of state or to Des Moines to pick up an iguana. Furthermore, many adoption organizations do not want to ship their reptiles because they usually obtain these reptiles due to illnesses and other negligent abuse, which I can completely agree with.  So my question I am getting at is Can you ship me an Iguana FedEx overnight? This is the most standard way breeders ship them, but I was very impressed by how healthy yours looked on your website.
Please respond ASAP. I am quite anxious to have an iguana. 
Another thing, if you are concerned with the temperature the iguana will endure during shipping to Louisiana you can be quite sure that it is HOT.

A:  I appreciate your enthusiasm.  However, 95% of those iguana pictures are so last year (or the year before).  The igs we have now are babies that eagerly chow on dandelions and violet foliage.  They cost $30.  The overnight shipping would probably run an additional $40.  You should be able to locate a healthy iguana in a New Orleans pet store for considerably less.  If you cannot, send me another email (with your address), but reconnoiter New Orleans first.  LA
PS 
Thanks for naming your state after me.

 

Doug Humphrey, April 27, 2006
I was wondering if you could tell me more about the Mast Fin catfish? I see one in your photos but don't know what their actual scientific name is.  Thank you very much.

LA
Mast fin catfish.  New one for us.

A:  Sorry.  I was never able to find out much about them other than they are from Asia.  Mine did not do well for me.  LA

Nick Bachman, Iowa, April 27, 2006
Greetings.  I've been coming to Aqualand since I was a youngster, and really enjoy the place. I was wondering if you carry large centipedes, and if so, what varieties, and how much $$$?  Thank you a great deal for your time.

A:  Last time I looked, we had the Vietnamese red-headed centipede in stock.  Call me at work (283-0300) and I'll see if we still have one in stock and the price.  LA

Bob, Norfolk, VA, April 28, 2006
Thank you for your entertaining and highly informative web site. I have learned a lot by visiting your huge site. I haven't even gotten halfway through it yet.
Your style of writing with the sense of humor makes surfing through your web pages a real treat! The pictures are top quality.
I wish your store was here in town. There are only a handful of stores in this area that even come remotely close to the high quality of your store.
There is one question that I've always wondered about. Should the aquarium lights be turned off at night? I just have a 55 gal freshwater tank with blue and kissing gouramis. Thanks,

A:  Lights on for 24 hours probably bug the fish -- some more than others.  I've got one bank of 28 20H tanks that have been on for the last 25 years because they take so long to turn back on.  The fish seem to accept the situation.  However, algae grows incredibly fast in those tanks.  They need their front glass wiped every three or four days.  LA
PS 
Make sure you read the whole site.  There will be a test.

Rebecca Allen, April 29, 2006
Have just visited your site. I noticed you had a section on rats, thankfully saying how they make good pets (many people dislike them, as you probably know).
Just wanted to point out that in the bedding section, you say to avoid cedar chips but state that pine shavings are ok. I have been keeping rats for years and years now and would not recommend keeping rats on wood based bedding at all. Instead paper based cat litter is ideal. Anything paper based that is dust free is good for them but wood based litters aggravate their respiratory systems.
Thanks for reading

A:  My first 35 to 40 years of rat ranching I kept my rats over pine.  I never had any problems with pine.  However, I've converted 100% to aspen.  We never see respiratory problems with aspen.  We like aspen because we can also keep reptiles over it. Pelleted paper works fine even though it's also made of wood.  As you say, cedar causes problems (and not just with rats).  LA
PS  Rats make excellent pets.

Manuel deLossantos, April 29, 2006
I`m one of your members. I watch your web page everyday and wanted to know what do I need for a sponge filter. Or if you can send me a picture of it set up, I would really thank you.

A:  Here's a picture of a sponge filter with some cherry red shrimp "harvesting" whatever's growing on this sponge.  This is half of a 20-year old Tetra Brilliant.  TetraWerks stopped making them a few years ago.  Hagen makes a close copy of it.  Jungle, Lee, and Ginger all make good sponge filters of an entirely different design.  They all work well.  You just hook 'em to an air pump and they start working.  They need about six weeks to grow a good bacterial base.  They filter biologically and mechanically but not chemically.  LA

Sponge Filters was added May 18.  LA

Kristen Shien, April 30, 2006
First of all I'd like to mention that your idea of feeding brine shrimp to my mollies does seem to be saving more babies. Unfortunately, I have what appears to be a bigger problem. I was hoping maybe you could help me with this one, too.
My prize molly, a salt-and-pepper (mostly pepper, she's more black than white) delivered an entire clutch of clear yellow eggs last night. For months now, every five weeks, she would give birth to hundreds of babies. What could have suddenly caused this irregularity? She was large when I bought her, and now she's about 3 inches long. Could she be too old to carry fertile eggs?

A:  Mollies usually give birth every eight weeks.  The usual cause of premature delivery in mollies is moving them in their late stages of pregnancy.  Pregnant females often give birth in the bag on their way home from the fish store.  Record her last delivery date.  Then don't move her during the last three weeks of her pregnancy.  To be 100% "safe," don't move her at all.  LA

Al Howarth, Iowa, April 30, 2006
I can't seem to keep mystery snails alive.  My first four, from Aqualand lasted about three weeks.  I bought a few replacements at Aqualand last week, and they died within a few days.  I came back yesterday to buy a few more, although we couldn't find any.  So, I bought some blue mystery snails at a competitor.  Now they all seem dead.  All the fish are fine........Any ideas?  Thanks,

A:  Since the snails from different locations all died, there could be a problem in your water.  Most likely candidates include: 
1.  Copper.  Have you used any medications with copper in them?  Aquarisol, for instance, contains copper.  Do a 50% water change and add NovAqua.  The EDTA in it will make the copper harmless.
2.  Salt -- the stronger the salt level, the quicker they die.
3.  Clown loaches, puffers, and many cichlids will eat snails.  Livebearers pester them but rarely kill them.  LA

ibh, April 30, 2006
Could you send me a list of aggressive community cichlids?

A:  I'm sorry.  Your request exceeds my current capabilities.  LA

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